{"id":3657,"date":"2013-12-11T17:34:29","date_gmt":"2013-12-11T17:34:29","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/?p=3657"},"modified":"2013-12-11T17:38:58","modified_gmt":"2013-12-11T17:38:58","slug":"tromso-in-winter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/?p=3657","title":{"rendered":"Troms\u00f8 in Winter"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Following a very enjoyable early December holiday in Alta last year, where I saw a wonderful display of the <a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Aurora (astronomy)\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Aurora_%28astronomy%29\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Aurora Borealis<\/a>, I decided to visit <a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Norway\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Norway\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Norway<\/a> again this year. Having visited the city of\u00a0<a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Troms\u00f8\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Troms%C3%B8\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Troms\u00f8<\/a> in July 2012, I decided that I would return to the city to see the <a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Polar night\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Polar_night\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Polar Night<\/a>, as well as attempting to view the Northern Lights.<\/p>\n<p>I booked a holiday, with my friends Sue and Simon, arriving in\u00a0Troms\u00f8 on Thursday December 5th 2013, and returning on Monday 9th. Our holiday was arranged by Taber Holidays, who arranged my previous visit to\u00a0Troms\u00f8, as well as my Alta trip. We stayed at the Rica Ishavshotel which is situated directly on the harbour, next to the <a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Hurtigruten\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Hurtigruten\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Hurtigruten<\/a> coastal ferry dock.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321686326\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"Rica Sunset\" alt=\"Rica Sunset\" src=\"http:\/\/farm6.static.flickr.com\/5505\/11321686326_1d8d58d0e8.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Rica Sunset (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The holiday for me started with a nightmare journey to Heathrow for the first flight to <a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Oslo\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Oslo\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Oslo<\/a>. I was diverted off the M1 twice, and took a wrong turn, meaning that I arrived at the airport an hour later than planned and just in time to check-in.<\/p>\n<p>The flight to Oslo was uneventful and a quick turnaround at the Norwegian capital saw us board the\u00a0Troms\u00f8 flight with only ten minutes to spare. A short flight of under two hours and we were in\u00a0Troms\u00f8. After a 15 minute coach journey we were booking in to our hotel.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321648523\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"Troms\u00f8 at night\" alt=\"Troms\u00f8 at night\" src=\"http:\/\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2833\/11321648523_db0cea2216.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troms\u00f8 at night (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Snow arrived early in\u00a0Troms\u00f8 this year, falling in October and catching motorists unawares and meaning a rapid change to Winter tyres. There were six inches at least on the ground in\u00a0Troms\u00f8, with about three feet in the mountains surrounding the city.<\/p>\n<p>The main reason for our trip was to view the Northern Lights, and for this we needed clear skies. Fortunately, the cloudy skies of earlier days dispersed and we were greeted with clear skies, and low temperatures, for most of our holiday.<\/p>\n<p>On our first evening in the city, we had dinner in the hotel. I chose reindeer slices for starter, followed by baked cod &#8211; both courses were excellent. After dinner, we had a stroll around the harbour and spent some time gazing towards the skies, hoping to catch a glimpse of the Aurora. I wasn&#8217;t expecting to see anything due to light pollution from the city, but we did manage to see a very brief glimpse of something resembling an Aurora over the nearby mountains.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321613436\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"Bushes on the mountain\" alt=\"Bushes on the mountain\" src=\"http:\/\/farm4.static.flickr.com\/3763\/11321613436_0a959e5302.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bushes on the mountain (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Our second day in\u00a0Troms\u00f8 started with an excellent breakfast in the hotel. I had stayed in a Rica hotel in Alta, so I knew what to expect. There was every kind of breakfast food you could imagine, from cereal, fruit, meat, fish, cheese, waffles, omelettes, as well as the usual eggs, bacon and sausage. A great way to start the day.<\/p>\n<p>After breakfast, we visited a very helpful tourist information office before booking seats on the Round Trip. This is a bus and ferry journey to\u00a0Skjerv\u00f8y, before a return to\u00a0Troms\u00f8 on the Hurtigruten. The tour left at 14:10 and we didn&#8217;t return until midnight. At 750NOK, about \u00a375, I thought this was excellent value and to cap the trip off in style, we saw the Aurora from the stern of the Hurtigruten.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321680333\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"View from Mount Storsteinen\" alt=\"View from Mount Storsteinen\" src=\"http:\/\/farm6.static.flickr.com\/5549\/11321680333_2de640fc09.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">View from Mount Storsteinen (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>On day three, we took a ride on\u00a0Fjell\u00adhei\u00adsen, the cable car that takes you\u00a0to Stor\u00adstei\u00adnen (Big Rock) on mount Fl\u00f8ya, 421\u00a0meters above sea level. The trip takes four minutes and from the top you can enjoy the view of Troms\u00f8 and the sur\u00adround\u00ading islands and fjords from an out\u00addoor viewing deck. There is also a cafe at the top where we enjoyed hot chocolate after a short stroll on the snow-covered mountain.<\/p>\n<p>Snow was around six feet deep at the cable car station, and a bitterly cold wind meant that I didn&#8217;t stray too far, only venturing out to take some photos. I had particularly wanted to photograph the view from the top, overlooking\u00a0Troms\u00f8, one of my favourite views. I managed to get some shots around midday, when the light was a breathtaking blue, and also around 14:00 when the darkness had returned.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321581305\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"Troms\u00f8 night scene\" alt=\"Troms\u00f8 night scene\" src=\"http:\/\/farm4.static.flickr.com\/3678\/11321581305_7f5fb51392.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"333\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troms\u00f8 night scene (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>After returning to our hotel, we booked on a tour with Northern Shots to see the Aurora. They promised to chase the Lights until the early hours, if necessary, offering 50% off the next day if they were unsuccessful. The price of 950NOK (\u00a395) and was well worth it as we caught our first glimpse of the Lights on a windswept mountain overlooking the city. We also witnessed a lightening display, which is very rare to see with the Aurora. Our expert guide even managed to snap a lightening strike and Aurora on the same photo.<\/p>\n<p>We returned to our hotel around midnight, happy that we had seen what we came for.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321515375\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"Troms\u00f8 Cathedral\" alt=\"Troms\u00f8 Cathedral\" src=\"http:\/\/farm4.static.flickr.com\/3675\/11321515375_4fd33e31ff.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troms\u00f8 Cathedral (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>A heavy snowfall greeted our final full day in\u00a0Troms\u00f8, with another two inches falling overnight. By 11:00, this cleared and we were able to visit the Polar Museum and <a class=\"zem_slink\" title=\"Polaria\" href=\"http:\/\/en.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Polaria\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"wikipedia\">Polaria<\/a>. The Polar Museum had exhibits of Polar exhibitions and Sami life, while Polaria is much larger and features a panoramic film theatre showing films of the Northern Lights and Svalbard, an aquarium, complete with seals, and an exhibition showing life in the Arctic.<\/p>\n<p>I met my friends Peter and Kate in\u00a0Troms\u00f8 for a drink. They were travelling north on Hurtigruten, having flown in to\u00a0Troms\u00f8. After their boat left, Sue, Simon and I\u00a0dined at Steakers Restaurant on the harbour side, where I had a large meal consisting of shellfish soup for starter, followed by a combo of lamb shank, pork ribs and beef steak. Another excellent, though not very Norwegian, meal.<\/p>\n<div style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.flickr.com\/photos\/78060750@N06\/11321611325\" target=\"_blank\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-img-inserted zemanta-img-configured\" title=\"Troms\u00f8 harbour\" alt=\"Troms\u00f8 harbour\" src=\"http:\/\/farm3.static.flickr.com\/2811\/11321611325_9931287b30.jpg\" width=\"500\" height=\"375\" \/><\/a><p class=\"wp-caption-text\">Troms\u00f8 harbour (Photo credit: Alan Rowley Photos)<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Reluctantly, we had to say goodbye to the Arctic on day five.\u00a0Heavy snow in Oslo caused a delay to our original flight, but we were able to catch an earlier flight which meant we arrived in Heathrow on time. Unfortunately, our luggage didn&#8217;t and that was delivered by courier the following evening. I didn&#8217;t mind too much as I was happy to get home at the time I had arranged.<\/p>\n<p>Norway is always a place that I am sad to leave. The people are friendly, and you feel safe wherever you wander &#8211; not something I can say about my hometown.\u00a0Another excellent holiday in this stunningly beautiful country was over, and before I got home, I was already planning my next trip to the Arctic &#8211; this time it will be in Summer<\/p>\n<h6 class=\"zemanta-related-title\" style=\"font-size: 1em;\">Related articles<\/h6>\n<ul class=\"zemanta-article-ul\">\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/r.zemanta.com\/?u=http%3A\/\/www.telegraph.co.uk\/travel\/cruises\/10481225\/Hurtigruten-cruise-Northern-Lights-in-Norway.html&amp;a=225378761&amp;rid=e3802c16-ce89-42f0-9b43-b27004633ddc&amp;e=271c268832abf61403364df0b640fd3b\" target=\"_blank\">Hurtigruten cruise: Northern Lights in Norway<\/a> (telegraph.co.uk)<\/li>\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.independent.co.uk\/travel\/news-and-advice\/simon-calder-norway-pushes-the-boat-out-for-ferry-holidays-8972408.html\" target=\"_blank\">Simon Calder: Norway pushes the boat out for ferry holidays<\/a> (independent.co.uk)<\/li>\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/r.zemanta.com\/?u=http%3A\/\/www.cnn.com\/2013\/11\/20\/travel\/best-northern-lights\/index.html&amp;a=222965258&amp;rid=e3802c16-ce89-42f0-9b43-b27004633ddc&amp;e=3d8633155cc9c1ea1231a5e863db2ee1\" target=\"_blank\">Best places to see the Northern Lights<\/a> (cnn.com)<\/li>\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/mercedesrosello.wordpress.com\/2013\/12\/10\/arctic-norway-great-winter-whale-watching-without-the-whale-meat-at-tromso\/\" target=\"_blank\">Arctic Norway: great winter whale watching without the whale meat at Tromso<\/a> (mercedesrosello.wordpress.com)<\/li>\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/carlyonjames.wordpress.com\/2013\/12\/10\/tromso-norway\/\" target=\"_blank\">Troms\u00f8, Norway<\/a> (carlyonjames.wordpress.com)<\/li>\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/jitterbugwrote.wordpress.com\/2013\/12\/02\/tromso-norway\/\" target=\"_blank\">Troms\u00f8, Norway<\/a> (jitterbugwrote.wordpress.com)<\/li>\n<li class=\"zemanta-article-ul-li\"><a href=\"http:\/\/california.answers.com\/attractions\/what-are-the-northern-lights\" target=\"_blank\">What Are the Northern Lights?<\/a> (california.answers.com)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div class=\"zemanta-pixie\" style=\"margin-top: 10px; height: 15px;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"zemanta-pixie-img\" style=\"border: none; float: right;\" alt=\"\" src=\"http:\/\/img.zemanta.com\/pixy.gif?x-id=e3802c16-ce89-42f0-9b43-b27004633ddc\" \/><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Following a very enjoyable early December holiday in Alta last year, where I saw a wonderful display of the Aurora Borealis, I decided to visit Norway again this year. Having visited the city of\u00a0Troms\u00f8 in July 2012, I decided that I would return to the city to see the Polar Night, as well as attempting <a href='https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/?p=3657' class='excerpt-more'>[Read more]<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[31],"tags":[246,249,255,250,254,20,252,251,253,18],"class_list":["post-3657","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-holidays","tag-arctic","tag-aurora","tag-aurora-borealis","tag-hurtigruten","tag-northern-lights","tag-norway","tag-oslo","tag-polar-night","tag-polaria","tag-tromso","category-31-id","post-seq-1","post-parity-odd","meta-position-corners","fix"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3657","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=3657"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3657\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3751,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3657\/revisions\/3751"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=3657"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=3657"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.alanrowley.info\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=3657"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}